September 18, 2019, Lake McArthur, Lake O'Hara
Lake McArthur and Lake O’Hara
Distance: approx. 10 kms
Elevation: 310 km
Fred and I joined the Alpine Club of Canada in the fall of 2018. When a notice came via email about the Elizabeth Parker Hut lottery, we decided to throw our names in for a couple of dates late September 2019, when it might be snowy and cold, but when the larches would hopefully be turning to their brilliant yellow colour. It was a long shot for sure because the Lake O’Hara area where the Elizabeth Parker hut is located is one of the most stunningly beautiful areas in the Rockies. But with various access restrictions to protect its fragile environment, there are many, many, many people competing for very few spots either at the campground, in the hut or on the day use bus. I was completely shocked and ecstatic when I found out we won 4 spots in the hut! I shared the news with my dear friend Paula and asked her to keep mid September on her radar as a possible time for a visit. I first met Paula back in my university years when I would come out from Ontario to work at Chateau Lake Louise, because she too, came out from Ontario and worked summers at the Chateau.
Paula arrived September 17th, less than a day before leaving for Lake O’Hara. We spent the evening sorting gear, coordinating meals and packing up backpacks. Because I am a bit of a worry wart, we rose bright and early and were on the road by 7:15 am – a tad early for the 10:30 bus 😆. As we were driving in, we couldn’t see even one mountain because of the fog and low-lying cloud. Admittedly I was concerned. I wanted Paula to have an amazing time in the Rockies and let’s be honest, weather does play a role in how enjoyable a hike is. We pulled into the Lake O’Hara parking lot by 9:30 am and after some razzing from Fred on how early we were, we stayed in the car until 10:00 am. It was wonderful for Paula to see the Lake O’Hara check-in process. I think it was at this point that she started to really sense how special this area is. At the same time, the clouds were just starting to lift, and mountains were appearing right before our eyes.
After we got situated on the school bus and received our highly coveted green token to ensure a spot on a bus back down, we endured a very bumpy 11 km ride before arriving at Lake O’Hara. Paula and I walked down to the lake while Fred started carrying backpacks to the hut 😊.
Once Paula and I made it to the huts, we had a bit of back and forth determining where to sleep. All bottom bunks were taken in the larger hut and only one spot remained in the Wiwaxy hut. Knowing I would not be able to tolerate the heat from the fire in the larger hut, and hearing those in the smaller hut would not have a fire, I opted to leave Fred and Paula to the larger hut and I chose the smaller one 😲. Hmmm…a mistake I would rectify for the second night as I missed my friend and husband and there was just as much snoring going on in the Wiwaxy Hut 😂.
Given the late start and Paula not used to this elevation or hiking, we choose to trek up to McArthur Lake. What I loved about all three days with Paula was the pace we walked. Because she was new to all of this, we took our time, continually stopping for pictures or to show her something or answer her questions. The larches were peaking with their colour and we had enough sun coming through the clouds to make their yellow colour that much more brilliant. Along the way we saw a marmot and a considerable grizzly digging.
As always, the colour of Lake McArthur was stunning. Truly there are no words to describe the magnificent blue and blue-green colours. We spent quite a bit of time at the lake, roaming around, seeing ptarmigans, watching a loon, taking pictures and then having a bit to eat. Fred and I climbed part way up Schaffer for a bit of a different view of Lake McArthur and Mount Park. Even though the clouds completely covered the sun, the beauty around us was undeniable.
We made our way back to the huts thinking it might be time for dinner, but the sun was out once again so Paula and I decided to head to Lake O’Hara for a bit of exploration of the lake’s shoreline. All too soon, it was time to head back to the hut for dinner. Fred made us tasty fajitas. I got caught up talking to other hut residents about their day’s adventures. Shortly after dishes were done it was time to settle in for the night. What a wonderful first day 😊.
